How much PSU wattage do you actually need?
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Most single-GPU gaming PCs need a 650W to 1000W power supply, and the number that actually matters is your graphics card's rated power draw plus roughly 150W of headroom for the rest of the system. Above that tier, you're paying for wattage the build will never draw.
| GPU tier | Typical card power | PSU we'd fit | Price (as of 11 Sep 2026) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Entry (RTX 3050, GTX 1650) | 75-130W | MSI MAG A650BN 650W Bronze | ₹4,400 |
| Mid (RTX 3060 12GB) | ~170W | MSI MAG A750GL 750W Gold | ₹8,300 |
| High (RTX 5070 Ti) | ~300W | Corsair HX1000i 1000W Platinum | ₹21,600 |
| Enthusiast, heavy overclock or dual-GPU workstation | 350W+ | Super Flower Leadex VII 850W Platinum | ₹17,450 |
Card power figures above are manufacturer-published typical board power, cross-checked against Corsair's own RTX 5070 Ti power supply guidance, not our estimate.
Why not just always buy the biggest PSU?
A PSU is most efficient somewhere in the middle of its rated load, not at 10% or 15%. Buy a 1200W unit for a card that draws 170W and you're paying more upfront for a part running well below where it works best. It won't hurt the PC. It just isn't buying you anything.
There's one exception worth knowing. If you're planning a GPU upgrade within the next year or two, sizing the PSU for that future card rather than your current one is a reasonable bit of headroom, not overkill. The difference is planning ahead versus buying big because the number on the box feels safer.
What happens if you undersize it?
Random restarts under load, usually mid-game the moment the GPU spikes. Sometimes it's just annoying. On a cheap, unbranded PSU with poor voltage regulation it can also damage other parts over time. This is the one component in a build we won't cut corners on to save a few hundred rupees.
How do you find your own GPU's actual power draw?
Search the card's exact model name plus "TDP" or "total board power" and check the manufacturer's own spec page first, not a random forum guess. Nvidia and AMD both publish this number for every card they sell. If you already own the PC, MSI Afterburner or the Nvidia App will show live power draw while a game is running, which is the real number rather than the on-paper rating.
Don't use a generic online PSU calculator as your only source. Most of them assume a full high-end system and round up hard, which is exactly how people end up buying more PSU than they need.
From the floor
We get asked for "the biggest PSU you have" more often than you'd think, usually from someone who read that bigger is always safer. It isn't wrong, exactly. It's just money spent on the wrong thing. We'd rather put that ₹3,000 into a better GPU and size the PSU to match it.
FAQ
Does 80 Plus rating matter as much as wattage?
Yes, for efficiency and heat, not for whether the PC boots. Bronze, Gold and Platinum all supply rated power reliably from a reputable brand. Gold and above waste less as heat and run quieter under load.
Can I reuse my old PSU in a new build?
Only if it's from a known brand, under about five years old, and rated for the new GPU's power draw and connectors. A new high-end GPU needs specific PCIe power connectors an old PSU may not have.
What's the actual risk of a cheap, unbranded PSU?
Poor voltage regulation under load, which can shorten the life of your GPU and motherboard, and in rare cases fail in a way that damages other components. It is the one part of a build worth spending on.
Do I need a modular PSU?
Not strictly, but it makes cable management much easier since you only plug in the cables you actually use. Worth the small price difference in a mid-tower cabinet with limited space behind the motherboard tray.
Bring your GPU model to the store and we'll match a PSU to it, not the other way round.
Related: How to Choose the Right Graphics Card for Your PC · What does a ₹50,000 gaming PC actually get you?
Shivam Chandravansi builds and stress-tests every machine that leaves the Get Right PC floor. Published 11 September 2026.
